Viral Sensation: When food goes mainstream

Kensington Market is a bustling hub of sights and smells. From up Baldwin St. down to Kensington Ave., the neighbourhood is full of people looking to reap all the shops have to offer. Located in the heart of downtown Toronto, the market is a prime example of how well different cultures come together.

Torteria San Cosme is a traditional Mexican restaurant, self-dubbed the first authentic tortas restaurant in Toronto. Opened for only nine months, the restaurant boasts an extensive menu that extends from authentic Cuban sandwiches and tortas to westernized hybrids like the milanesa. NAME HERE, manager and chef, credits the restaurant’s success to both the area and its ideals.

“[Kensington Market’s] a good area for opening bars, restaurants, whatever you want…many people come here. It’s a beautiful place because it has many cultures.“

With restaurants specializing in Belgian fries sitting across from a Hawaiian poke spot and southern soul food stop, Torontonians have the unique opportunity to both experience foods outside of their culture as well as be brought back to their own.

“We have [two kinds of customers]. Many people, when they come for the first time, say, “Oh! It’s very beautiful! Nice store, nice restaurant. What’s the menu?” Then we explain the menu. Many people, Latin or Mexican people, they come and say, “Oh, amazing! This is tortas, authentic Mexican!”.”

When a particular dish gets to be very popular, its common to see restaurants serving it crop up across the city; it happened to sushi, burritos and jerk chicken, just to name a few. One of the next ‘it’ foods going viral is halo-halo.

A Filipino dish layered with various cold toppings and served in a cup, halo-halo has taken the Toronto market by storm. Foodies have raved and reviewed, public interest has peaked, new restaurants have opened, and now the chilled desert has gone mainstream.

Ethan Adeland, co-founder and managing director at Food Bloggers of Canada Inc. attributes the rise of mainstream dishes to the power and sway of social media reviews.

“With Canada being so culturally diverse, we have incredible access to so many different grocery stores, markets and restaurants,” Adeland says. “With food bloggers and social media in general, you see what your favourite bloggers and friends all over the world are eating and it piques your interest to seek it out yourself.”

Jef Catapang is a Toronto-based writer, designer, and a second-generation Filipino Canadian, born and raised in Mississauga. He is set to host a local event titled “Will There Be Halo Halo?”. Presented by The Ethnic Aisle, participants will explore Filipino food and culture in Toronto and what its rising popularity could mean for the future. Catapang cautions that not every person looking to experience a culture will do so respectfully.

“Even though we live in a very multicultural city, it's really easy to just experience [cultures] on a superficial level--tasting each other's food, listening to each other's music, maybe watching a foreign flick, etc,” Catapang says.

When a certain dish goes viral, restaurants are pushed to offer the plate to cater to diners. Unfortunately, what you see on a menu is often a westernized version of the original. Quesadillas are traditionally made with only a small amount of cheese and a side of fresh salsa, not stuffed to the brim with lettuce, tomatoes, and chicken. Butter chicken is meant to be eaten with a side of naan bread, not on a bed of rice. Peoples feelings on the matter are on both sides of the fence. Some feel that adaptation is natural, while others caution a potential loss of culture.

“This [panel] gives [people] a chance to dive in and have some deeper conversations and more meaningful cultural exchanges,” Catapang says, “ and hopefully [it] inspire others to do the same.”

Catapang’s sentiments are further pushed forward by Adeland, who stresses the value in experiencing foods outside one’s culture, and the language barriers it can help tear down.

“If I can’t get to the country or region, the very least I can do is experience their cuisine. And by trying new foods, you’re exposed to different flavours, textures, spices and you’re simply exposed to more of what the world has to offer. That makes me want to learn more about the foods and where they came from, including travelling to the country of origin to experience it for myself.”

The discourse on mainstream foods is constantly ongoing, with points and opinions changing and evolving along with it. Though there can be a risk of ‘discovering’ new dishes and an influx of westernized versions, the reward of sharing a part of your culture with others and, in turn, experiencing someone else, makes it all worth it.